Durian
On a hot afternoon in Singapore like this one, a major preoccupation of mine is looking to find ways to cool down. Besides having the ceiling fan on, I do enjoy a platter of chilled, tropical fruits. I feel like papaya today. It’s not really in season, but you don’t really have to wait for a fruit to be in season anymore. Just pop by the nearest supermarket or fruit stand, and you’ll find a wide and attractive range of fruits from across the region. From Dragons (dragon fruit) to Dukus and of course, Durians.
The fruit synonymous to Singapore is the Durian. But, mind you, do not have a go at durians on any hot afternoon. I fainted once while attempting this feat. It’s well-known in the area of holistic medicine as a rather ‘heaty’ fruit.
Esplanade Theatre a.k.a Durian building
Even if you’re new to Singapore, you might have heard about this rather controversial fruit. The Durian is a native fruit of South-east Asia, and a favourite of many Singaporeans, Malaysians, and Thais alike. In fact, it’s even a favourite of our fellow South-east Asian native, the orang utan.
So where’s the controversy? Not unlike other exotic treats, one man’s meat is at times another man’s poison (or should I quote the Malay proverb, duri dalam daging – a thorn in the flesh).
The size of a soccer ball, this fruit has a distinctive appearance with its spiky, olive green husk. Inside, you’ll find five neat segmented compartments, each segment separated from the other with a thick lining that encapsulates a cream-coloured, custard-like pulp. This creamy flesh that covers each large seed is relished by some, described as truly delicious and even regal – hence the name the King of fruits – but can be foul to others.
Opened Durian
But it’s not the unusual appearance of the durian that makes it different from other fruits. You can smell its pungent odour, literally, a mile away. Some say, if you can get past the smell, you’ll most likely enjoy the durian’s taste. It doesn’t really taste the way it smells, but it’s strong enough to deter even the most adventurous of food experts like Andrew Zimmern. And if you think a whiff of air freshener would do the trick, think again. The smell of the durian is indeed resilient and could linger on for hours. So don’t wonder much if you see “No Durian” signs in public areas in Singapore.
Game for the Real Thing?
If you feel ‘brave’ enough and would like to have a taste of the fruit, then head straight for the real thing. There are many durian cafes on the island — a local haunt is a short stretch along Sims Avenue, between the Kallang and Aljunied MRT stations. A durian café is, for obvious reasons, an outdoor café serving durians that are selected by the customers and served directly in their husks. The tables and chairs are right next to the fruit stand.
And if you really like Durians, you might consider a Durian tour which takes you on a day trip (by road) to one of the durian orchards in Johor (southernmost Malaysian state).
Sweeter Alternatives
There are, should I say, safer ways to enjoy this fruit apart from eating it straight from its husk. Many of my friends not familiar with the fruit prefer this option. The sweet and creamy taste and texture of the durian makes it an ideal ingredient in desserts. One local favourite is the pengat durian (a sweet durian pudding flavoured with cane-sugar and fragrant pandanus leaves), bubur pulut durian (basically the pengat, with glutinous rice included), dodol (a toffee-like traditional Malay dessert), and chendol (a traditional Indonesian cold dessert). The durian even found its way to more contemporary cake recipes. Secret Recipe (there are 2 in the Marina area Suntec City Mall, Temasek Boulevard, 3 #B1-053/054 and Marina Square, Raffles Boulevard, 6 #03-211) has a mean Durian cake. Every supermarket will carry Durian-flavoured ice creams. Some bakeries (like Polar Café and Prima Deli) also feature durian meringues and even milkshakes! My personal favourite would be Bengawan Solo that features the more traditional desserts including those containing durian.
What’s in a Durian’s name?
Rambutan
The local name of this fruit dubbed as the King of Fruits — duri- plus the suffix -an — roughly means “thorny stuff” in Malay. It follows the naming convention of the durian’s smaller, less painful rival, “hairy stuff” (a.k.a the Rambutan).
Rambutans are often confused with their cousins the Pulasans, which are just as red outside and as juicy inside. The name Pulasan correctly indicates that one has to pulas (twisting with both hands while firmly gripping) the rind of the fruit, breaking it to get to its juicy, translucent edible part.
Pulasan
It’s been referred to as the Rambutan’s more ‘fashionable’ counterpart, particularly in the 80’s, I suppose due the popularity of it’s punk style, crew-cut skin.
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